UKC

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The land owner has indicated that he doesn't want climbers there. Its best to keep a low profile if you do head there. If you are approached by the landowner leave politely and see if they can contact the BMC. 

20m. Access the sloping shelf below and left of the start of the route by descending the easy slabby corner on the climbers left of the Zawn. Traverse round to the start passing below Crow Road.
From the far right side of the shelf make committing moves rightwards onto the juggy diagonal rail and truck up the crack passing a stainless steel peg. Continue on steeply, passing two more stainless steel pegs and the crux. More steepness, long moves, and jugs lead past two more (this time rusty) pegs and eventually flat ground. (F7b+)

George Smith 1992.

Ticklists

100 Worthwhile E7's

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User Date Notes
peter.herd 22 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Summer 24: 5 regular pegs remain. There is otherwise plentiful opportunity for natural gear. None of the pegs are drilled or glued. I removed one very rusty (broke in half) peg and placed one channel peg. I attempted but failed to remove the highest (also very rusty) peg. I think it would make a good cam placement when cleared.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Summer 24: 5 regular pegs remain. There is otherwise plentiful opportunity for natural gear. None of the pegs are drilled or glued. I removed one very rusty (broke in half) peg and placed one channel peg. I attempted but failed to remove the highest (also very rusty) peg. I think it would make a good cam placement when cleared.

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The 4th Dimension

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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