20m.
Access the sloping shelf below and left of the start of the route by descending the easy slabby corner on the climbers left of the Zawn. Traverse round to the start passing below Crow Road.
From the far right side of the shelf make committing moves rightwards onto the juggy diagonal rail and truck up the crack passing a stainless steel peg. Continue on steeply, passing two more stainless steel pegs and the crux. More steepness, long moves, and jugs lead past two more (this time rusty) pegs and eventually flat ground. (F7b+)
From the far right side of the shelf make committing moves rightwards onto the juggy diagonal rail and truck up the crack passing a stainless steel peg. Continue on steeply, passing two more stainless steel pegs and the crux. More steepness, long moves, and jugs lead past two more (this time rusty) pegs and eventually flat ground. (F7b+)
George Smith 1992.
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Route of Interest
Painted Groove Direct
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Rhoscolyn)