Restricted Access
Access to most routes requires low tide and is very tricky - a kayak on a calm day might be the best option!. The shipwreck mentioned in the guide has broken up. Routes have had very few ascents and may be overgrown, particularly on Shipwreck Wall.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Penbwchdy Head to Pwll Deri - Check signs as restrictions may be lifted early. The cliffs south of the headland are unaffected.
63m, 3 pitches.
An epic climb that is one of the easiest(!) lines up a shocking cliff. Originally graded E4, the first pitch has lost holds including at least one crucial ledge, and it is a very different experience to South Stack / Lleyn / Craig Llong E4s. The end-on shale strata are ungenerous with holds so expect an awesome adventure with hard, strenuous climbing as well as the obligatory loose rock, rope-cutting edges, rusty pegs and sandy cracks.
1) 24m, 5c. Climb the right side of a pillar via two pegs and sandy seams until it is possible to commit to a steep black groove on the right. Squirm up this to gain dubious ledges on the left. Improvise over the roof above to a belay.
2) 15m, 5b. Follow the very steep crack through two roofs to a good seat belay beneath the final roof.
3) 15m, 5c. Traverse left under a massive blade of rock to finish up the final slot/groove. Surprisingly normal belay on a stake and various cams.
1) 24m, 5c. Climb the right side of a pillar via two pegs and sandy seams until it is possible to commit to a steep black groove on the right. Squirm up this to gain dubious ledges on the left. Improvise over the roof above to a belay.
2) 15m, 5b. Follow the very steep crack through two roofs to a good seat belay beneath the final roof.
3) 15m, 5c. Traverse left under a massive blade of rock to finish up the final slot/groove. Surprisingly normal belay on a stake and various cams.
FA. R.Conway, C.Jackson Jun/1984.
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Route of Interest
Air Raid
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mount Sion East)