Climbs 41
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

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Tregiffian on a rough day © rockjedi12345

Crag features

Between Boscawen Point and Tater-du are a series of delightful small coves and buttresses. There is a healthy selection of lower-grade routes in Tregiffian Cove with more challenging fare in nearby Union Star Cove. Rock quality is overall good and the climbing not overly strenuous, with a great deal of enjoyable slab work to be had. All this in a lovely setting that hides, in Union Star Cove, a dark and tragic past.

Note that rockfall has affected the top of A Sunny Interval (no change in grade) and the top half of Walking the Dog is completely gone. The pinnacle above, which was home to Black Adder II and After Burner no longer exists, so netierh do these routes. Fish Out of Water is either a very different climb or non-existant too.

Approach notes

There is no convenient right-of-way to Tregiffian Cove from directly inland. Park in a field just west of Trevedran Farm (honesty box). Walk east along the main road for 200m. Turn right through a gate, and follow a public footpath through the delightful wooded valley to reach the coast path. Take the steep left-hand branch down into the mouth of the valley and continue, across a lane and a stream, to the boulder beach. Turn east along the coast path for just under 1km, through a steep section, to the headland at Boscawen Point. Continue along the path for 500m to where the path rises towards a prominent isolated house on the crest of the slope. At this point, an indistinct path branches seaward into an overgrown meadow. Follow the path through dense vegetation and then cross a low wall onto the open cliff. Tregiffian Cove is directly below.

Don't think anyone has been here in a long while - the path through teh meadow was completely overgrown. It took us approx. 40 mins to hack through the stinging nettles and brambles. Now's a good time to visit, as we have done most of the work for you, but take a scythe to finish the job, or at the very least a stout stick. Nice crag. Also, winter storms have resulted in seaweed growing up the first few metres of the main slab, making all the climbs there more awkward.
Chimnastics - 24/Jun/14
Nice crag, easy scrable down no need to abb in, saw an Adder (Male?) on the appoach path so keep an eye out.
jamesca - 15/Apr/09
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Climbs at this crag

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