Trevor Quarry

Climbs 171
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 286m a.s.l

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James Rushforth on "This way to Clitheroe" (E4 6a) at Trevor Quarry © James Rushforth

Crag features

Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Update this Crag

Last updated on 23/Sep/2020

Access Advice

Due to the site's designation as both an SSSI and an Eurpoean Special Area of Conservation the landowner has been informed by Natural Resources for Wales that he cannot allow vegetation clearance, rock clearing or drilling on these rockfaces. Therefore until please refrain from further new routing in this area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines historically nested on the far left hand side of the crag. Signs will be in place on the apparoach path if this is the case but the birds have not nested here for over 10 years.

There are no seasonal restrictions currently in place for 2021 on any of Trevor rocks sections.

Last update: 22/03/2021

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.

More info

More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:

Clwyd Limestone (2005)

Update Guidebooks

PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E. peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose. another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top... Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect. Dale Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-) Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools. peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/ Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes. Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up. G - 31/Mar/06