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Climbs 21
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

<p>Superb climbing and ambience at this tidal sea-cliff with reliable rock and a wide variety of features including cracks and roofs. When facing the crag, a shelf of rock runs down from the right of the crag to the left. There is a prominent vein of quartz at the right of the crag, an obvious left to right diagonal crack in the middle, an impressive roof and a deep, water-washed cleft at the left.</p>

Approach notes

Approach from Trevalga which is situated between Boscastle and Tintagel. Park considerately in Trevalga at the village hall or the church. Walk through Trevalga Farm in a northerly direction, through a gate. Where the path splits take the route to the left across a small wooden bridge and follow the coastal footpath past the remains of slate mine workings until the path veers south towards Rocky Valley.

With the impressive stack of Long Island to your right, contour down the slope on a vague path until the gearing-up spot and abseil area are reached.

The crag can be approached by a scramble (The scramble can be reached by continuing along the coast path towards Rocky Valley for a bit longer.) but some of the finishes to climbs benefit from the use of the abseil rope to belay from. If a party decide to abseil in they will need a 50m static abseil rope and a 15m rigging rope to reach the shelf. At the top of the crag is a prominent boulder with grass growing on it. This is the gearing-up spot. Beside this is a much smaller boulder which offers a good thread belay for the rigging rope. The main boulder can then be abseiled around to its right or left.

The abseil should see you onto the shelving ledges at the base of the crag. Depending on the state of the sea and the tide, this can be a very pleasant place to be. It might be possible to escape the tide/ waves by moving up the crag onto ledges, in places. The usual caveats about sea-cliffs apply.

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Climbs at this crag

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