90m, 3 pitches.
'Central Route'. The guidebook says simply: The classic climb of the crag. Even climbing on solid rock, tough in the midsection. Good protection. Pitches: n6-, n5+, n4+.
E1 5b (5b, 5a, 4c) – pitches 2 and 3 are straight enough to be run together without too much rope-drag.
Pitch 1 starts on some bush-covered blocks to the left of the small overhanging wall that separates it from the nose of Jens Lorentsens minnerute. Move up diagonally left following a rising rib to a tree-covered ledge, then take the steep curving crack up and right (crux) as the groove narrows to escape on to a ledge. Follow a line of ramps, blocks and big holds up diagonally right, traversing to belay on a ledge under a small square-cut roof.
Pitch 2. Short pitch. From the belay continue another 3 metres right and up to the base of an 8 metre vertical wall with a finger-width crack running down its left edge. Follow the crack (crux), clipping a rusty peg at its top if you need it and/or trust it, to a ledge and possible stance.
Pitch 3. Continue straight up behind the ledge and after 3 metres make awkward moves on to a sloping shelf (rusty peg available above right after you're up). The route continues slightly-less-steeply up and trending rightwards, joining together a long series of narrow ledges, climbing on positive blocky holds, edges and flakes to the top. Option to traverse easily right at the last 5 metres to belay from the huge grassy ledge beneath a wall at the top of Jens Lorentsens minnerute.
Descent: The final ledge of Jens Lorentsens minnerute is equipped with two bolted abseil rings. A pair of 50 metre ropes is required to abseil down to the next, similarly-equipped stance, for one more abseil to the bottom.
E1 5b (5b, 5a, 4c) – pitches 2 and 3 are straight enough to be run together without too much rope-drag.
Pitch 1 starts on some bush-covered blocks to the left of the small overhanging wall that separates it from the nose of Jens Lorentsens minnerute. Move up diagonally left following a rising rib to a tree-covered ledge, then take the steep curving crack up and right (crux) as the groove narrows to escape on to a ledge. Follow a line of ramps, blocks and big holds up diagonally right, traversing to belay on a ledge under a small square-cut roof.
Pitch 2. Short pitch. From the belay continue another 3 metres right and up to the base of an 8 metre vertical wall with a finger-width crack running down its left edge. Follow the crack (crux), clipping a rusty peg at its top if you need it and/or trust it, to a ledge and possible stance.
Pitch 3. Continue straight up behind the ledge and after 3 metres make awkward moves on to a sloping shelf (rusty peg available above right after you're up). The route continues slightly-less-steeply up and trending rightwards, joining together a long series of narrow ledges, climbing on positive blocky holds, edges and flakes to the top. Option to traverse easily right at the last 5 metres to belay from the huge grassy ledge beneath a wall at the top of Jens Lorentsens minnerute.
Descent: The final ledge of Jens Lorentsens minnerute is equipped with two bolted abseil rings. A pair of 50 metre ropes is required to abseil down to the next, similarly-equipped stance, for one more abseil to the bottom.
FA: O. Klyve and R Kaarbø, June 1967. FFA: K.S. Bjerke, P. Vigerust, August 1969.
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Route of Interest
Lensmannen
Grade: n6- ***
(Liafjell)