UKC

Follows the upper cracked wall of Aborigine Wall, but at the bulge make hard moves direct and slightly left to finish. We climbed this thinking it was a new route, having not realised that Aborigine Wall climbs the same piece of rock, albeit via a circuitous approach (we just scrambled up from below). I couldn't understand why Aborigine Route got 'Just VS' as the thing we did was much harder than that, but on reading the original description of AR, it says 'Up the centre of this wall to a bulge, then move right and up cracked blocks (with care) to the top.' Silver Fox (which probably requires blinkers!) climbs to the bulge, but then pulls through it, slightly leftwards, which is the crux. As this was my first ever new route, I thought it might be worth revisiting if only for historical interest! Neil Foster

Neil Foster, Kevin Graham 20/Feb/1980.

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Spellbound

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Witches' Quarry)

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