Hong Kong Rock Description
85m. Now for something entirely different! One of the few six-pitch sport routes in Hong Kong and this one has a fantastically positioned aid traverse across a large roof. A wild, but well-protected sport climb over the sea that weaves in and out of caves and is an experience unique to the island.
1) 6b - 13m - 7 Bolts. Traverse left off the ledge using a series of discontinuous horizontal breaks to a spacious ledge and double-bolt belay.
2) 6c - 10m - 9 Bolts. A sustained and sequence orientated pitch. Step left from the belay and make a committing pull out over bulging rock (hidden holds) to a standing position on a narrow ramp. Continue diagonally left with hard moves up to gain a positive horizontal break underneath the roof. Traverse the break left to the end and make technical moves down to a belay ledge in the sea cave roof.
3) A0 - 20m - 12 Bolts. The one time it counts to pull on the bolts and get the tick! Aid your way across the bolt line to a double-bolt lower-off and using this, be lowered down to a ledge just above the water line. Secure yourself to the belay bolts then belay your partner across and lower them down to the belay. Untie, pull the rope and tie back in, ready to lead up pitch 4.
Attention! To prevent your rope ending up in the sea when it's pulled, clip some of the bolts on pitch four as directionals when being lowered down.
4) 6a - 15m - 8 Bolts. Climb the curving groove above the belay to the terrace and a belay on the far end.
5) 6a - 12m - 8 Bolts. Step left off the belay ledge to climb the left side of the pillar to merge with Ah Lun Central. Extend the second and third bolts with slings to route the rope away from edges. Exercise caution for the rock is weak in places.
6) 6a - 15m - 7 Bolts. Unfortunately some brief scrambling is required over poor ground at the start of this final pitch. Carefully trend up from the belay, crossing over a brief section of vegetation to a rock corner. Climb the corner to a ledge then up the slope to a double-bolt belay in a raised block of rock. © Hong Kong Rock
UKC Logbook Description
Now for something entirely different! One of the few six-pitch sport routes in Hong Kong and this one has a fantastically positioned aid traverse across a large roof. A wild, but well-protected sport climb over the sea that weaves in and out of caves and is an experience unique to the island.
P1: F6b
P2: F6c
P3: A0
P4: F6a
P5: F6a
P6: F6a
Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 31/Dec/2019.
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