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Climbs 171
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces all

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Rune Bennike leads Bananblocket, 6-, at Fjällbo. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25m on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Good topos here:

https://27crags.com/crags/utby

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/utby/

Guidebooks

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

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