Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) N4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2) and 3) 80m. Grade N2 to N3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for two rope lengths.
4) N3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the 'Lunch Ledge' below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) N4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) N3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) N3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) N4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) N2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) N4+, 25m. Climb the crack up the slab (by jamming and laybacking), to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) N4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards), then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) N2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit. © Rockfax
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