UKC

505m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) N4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2) and 3) 80m. Grade N2 to N3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for two rope lengths.
4) N3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the 'Lunch Ledge' below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) N4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) N3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) N3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) N4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) N2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) N4+, 25m. Climb the crack up the slab (by jamming and laybacking), to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) N4+, 35m. Traverse right between the huge "flake" and the mountain in a dark deep abyss then traverse a on sloping footholds but good handholds, and to reach an easy chimney.
12) N2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump (or abseil) to cross. Continue more easily to the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nilshermann 30 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We both loved and hated this outing. Hated the first part of the scrambling, crawling and climbing in fine sand and cat litter. Absolutely loved the views and the actual climbing pitches. Seems like people are confused about the crack pitch and the next one. We climbed the longest and widest crack and belayed under the bulge (as the book says). On the next pitch we traversed right between the huge "flake" and the mountain in a dark deep abyss (not hard, foothold on the flake side), leave the flake, then traverse a few meters on sloppy footholds but good handholds, and then up easy chimney. I think the book have the line nicely drawed except for the text "across a big flake".
Show beta
βeta: We both loved and hated this outing. Hated the first part of the scrambling, crawling and climbing in fine sand and cat litter. Absolutely loved the views and the actual climbing pitches. Seems like people are confused about the crack pitch and the next one. We climbed the longest and widest crack and belayed under the bulge (as the book says). On the next pitch we traversed right between the huge "flake" and the mountain in a dark deep abyss (not hard, foothold on the flake side), leave the flake, then traverse a few meters on sloppy footholds but good handholds, and then up easy chimney. I think the book have the line nicely drawed except for the text "across a big flake".
miguelboland 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Big walk ins, poor route description and poor rock quality on the scrambling - not sure the chimney pitch, jam and traverse make it a top50 but it is what it is. Great views though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big walk ins, poor route description and poor rock quality on the scrambling - not sure the chimney pitch, jam and traverse make it a top50 but it is what it is. Great views though!

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Voting
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
High n4+
Mid n4+
Low n4+
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
1910 Ruta

Grade: n4+ ***
(Svolvær)

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