UKC

Climbs 23
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 140m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Alan James on Un Diletto (6b) on the superb Main Wall area at Valanga. © Daimon Beail

Crag features

Situated up on the hillside between San Vito Lo Capo and Macari is the small crag of Valanga offering a good selection of routes in the mid-grades. The crag has two sections - a south-facing marble quarry wall with the hardest routes, and the lower western slopes with more slabby walls with some great variety and more amenable grades

Approach notes

The crag is clearly visible from the road about halfway between the turning for El Bahira and San Vito. Park at the entrance to a property on the east side of the road. From the parking, walk approximately 70m south beyond the border of the grounds and locate the track at the centre of the undeveloped field. Follow this until it mutates into a vague path. Find the dried up river bed and follow it up and right then around (river becomes old quarry track) into the upper quarry. Other paths are forming, so keep an eye out for cairns for alternative approaches that lead directly across to the slabby Main Wall.

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