Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 436m a.s.l
Faces S

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Anthony Shaffu on Fisuras armoniosas (6a+) Valle de Abdalajis © Alan James

Crag features

At the far end of the southern face of the mountain range that holds the bulk of El Chorro's climbing lie the charming tiered walls and slabs of Valle de Abdalajis. The climbing is on excellent rock and of a friendly nature, with the added bonus of expansive views and dawn to dusk sunshine. There are plenty of well-bolted routes in the low and middle grades making it a good spot for teams of mixed abilities or those just finding their feet. The bulk of the areas described are only minutes from the car parking spots. The routes appear to be slabby in nature, but most of the routes are actually steeper than they look and many of the routes are crack climbs. These can often be great wide cracks for hand and foot traverses and you may even need to use the odd hand jam or two - almost unheard of on a winter sun holiday!

The crags face south and receive sun all day. There is absolutely no shade at the base, making this an extremely hot place in the warmer months and a welcome warm retreat in the winter. Take plenty of water, sun block and a hat. In windy or wet weather it is best to climb elsewhere, since the open slabs are exposed to the elements.

Good topo here.

Approach notes

From the railway station at El Chorro, take the road signposted to Valle de Abdalajis which goes up the hill and passes under Las Encantadas. The road winds its way over the range (turning left at the only major road junction), and then slowly drops until the outskirts of Valle de Abdalajis come into view. The crags are easily seen up on the left. Take the road into the village and follow it as it contours above the main centre of the village down to the right. After a few hundred metres, a couple of small signs will be seen on the left - one for Club de Vuelo and one for El Chorro. Turn sharp left here (this is the first turning on the left that actually leads anywhere). The narrow road soon turns into a rough track and leads out of the built-up area and towards the crags. After 0.7km, a number of small gravel tracks lead off before a small farm building on the right is reached - take one of the tracks depending on which end of the crag you want to park at. After rain the tracks become very muddy so drive with care. A number of paths lead quickly from the parking spots up to the base of the crag.

The parking for Sector Pico de la Bandera is back down the track nearer to the village. Sector Higueron is situated in another valley.

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