UKC

320m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
320m. Great slab climbing, that is never strenuous, in the lower reaches of the beautiful Vallon du BĂ©rard. its northerly aspect means it is a cool place on a sunny day and being just above the river means there is a good option for swimming after!
1) 5a, 2) 5b, 3) 5c, 4) 4c, 5) 5c, 6) 5b, 7) 5b, 8) 4c. There is the option to walk 5 mins further to another buttress with a further 4 pitches -4c, 5b, 4c, 5b.
Descent - Abseil the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1st part: 5a,5c,6a,4c,6a,4c,5b,4a
2nd part: 5a,5c,4b,5b

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Neonatal Alpinist 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hal Mungbean 14 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: P5 missing first bolt-hanger, ties-off ok with a thin dynema sling, and easy climbing. 60m ropes absolutely required for descent in four as described below - only just reach the belays.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P5 missing first bolt-hanger, ties-off ok with a thin dynema sling, and easy climbing. 60m ropes absolutely required for descent in four as described below - only just reach the belays.
gooberman-hill 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: With twin 60m rope you can abseil in 4 pitches. The top 4a pitch, then a full 60m to grassy ledges. Scramble left 20m to bolts at the top of p4, then two further 60m abseils to the base
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With twin 60m rope you can abseil in 4 pitches. The top 4a pitch, then a full 60m to grassy ledges. Scramble left 20m to bolts at the top of p4, then two further 60m abseils to the base
Sam Waddy 9 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: When you get to the crag there are two routes, the first very obvious set of bolts is the other route, it is harder! Razmokets starts further along to the right having scrambled easily up onto a platform.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When you get to the crag there are two routes, the first very obvious set of bolts is the other route, it is harder! Razmokets starts further along to the right having scrambled easily up onto a platform.
Webster 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: hardest pitch is 5b+ in the laroche and Lelong guidebook and that feels about right. the route is pretty sustained at mid 5 but there is no grade 6 climbing. minimum of 50m absails are needed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hardest pitch is 5b+ in the laroche and Lelong guidebook and that feels about right. the route is pretty sustained at mid 5 but there is no grade 6 climbing. minimum of 50m absails are needed

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Spur

Grade: D ***
(Les Courtes)

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