610m, 18 pitches.
A long, adventurous undertaking that takes you all the way to the top of Varasova Mountain.
Well protected with double bolt anchors with rappel rings at each belay enabling retreat via abseils down the route.
Descend from the top via the path marked with painted red squares to Kryoneri.
Note: the descent route can be difficult to follow especially if you finish in the dark. Take head torches and make sure you don’t lose the trail markers!
P1-6a+
P2-5a
P3-6b
P4-6b+
P5-5c+
P6-6a
P7-5a
P8-1
P9-Walk Up gully
P10-4a
P11-5a
P12-6a
P13-7a+ (6b 1PA)
P14-6a
P15-6a+
P16-6a+
P17-5b
P18-3
Well protected with double bolt anchors with rappel rings at each belay enabling retreat via abseils down the route.
Descend from the top via the path marked with painted red squares to Kryoneri.
Note: the descent route can be difficult to follow especially if you finish in the dark. Take head torches and make sure you don’t lose the trail markers!
P1-6a+
P2-5a
P3-6b
P4-6b+
P5-5c+
P6-6a
P7-5a
P8-1
P9-Walk Up gully
P10-4a
P11-5a
P12-6a
P13-7a+ (6b 1PA)
P14-6a
P15-6a+
P16-6a+
P17-5b
P18-3
K. Roussos, D. Kozanitis 2008.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tasman | 10 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: the route has been re bolted with glue ins. two glue ins for every station. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the route has been re bolted with glue ins. two glue ins for every station. |
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| tomlake | 21 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: P3&P4 are not so bad, much easier than The single pitch routes of a similar grade At the roadside. The 6b aid pitch felt much harder, maybe it was down to fatigue, but I may have used more than one point of aid. Walk off the top and make sure not to lose the painted trail markers! It really is a long day out so take plenty of food/water. The possibility of getting lost and benighted is pretty real so maybe throw in some warm layers/foil blanket. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: P3&P4 are not so bad, much easier than The single pitch routes of a similar grade At the roadside. The 6b aid pitch felt much harder, maybe it was down to fatigue, but I may have used more than one point of aid. Walk off the top and make sure not to lose the painted trail markers! It really is a long day out so take plenty of food/water. The possibility of getting lost and benighted is pretty real so maybe throw in some warm layers/foil blanket. |
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Route of Interest
Psychanemisma 2nd pitch
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Mytikas)