UKC

Climbs 53
Rocktype Amphibiolite & S
Altitude 13m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Dave Talbot on Alpharatz © henry castle

Crag features

The dramatic headland of True Vellan Head was previously dismissed for having no worthwhile climbing, leading to the conclusion that Hidden Buttress was Vellan Head. However, those with conviction have been, and seen, and have gleaned routes in all grades to suit all tastes, from pleasant slab routes at the lower end to some serious and run-out wall climbs. The cliffs here provide some of the longest climbs on the Lizard, surrounded by the most impressive coastal scenery. There is always a serious feel here, even on calm sunny days.

Approach notes

Approach from the National Trust car park at Predannack Wallas Farm for the northern buttresses, or from Kynance Cove for the southern ones.

We went down to do True North on 10/7/05 to find that there has been a big rockfall and the top half of the route no longer exists. This will also have taken out the two routes to the left. Unfortunately you can't see this until you've actually got down to the bottom of the cliff!
Alison Cairns - 12/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

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