Climbs 197
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 268m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Craig Entwistle on 33 Huit (6b+) Venasque © Adrian Berry

Crag features

One of the least known areas in this guide, Venasque has a concentration of very high quality routes with very short approaches. The routes vary from those which are technical, vertical and festooned with slopers to jaw-droppingly steep walls with long sustained climbs. This is generally a shady spot but you can get some sun if you get there early enough in the day. 

There are many more crags than described here, though a lot of the crags at Venasque are on private land and remain undeveloped. For three other developed areas, you may be able to acquire the local topo at the tourist information office in the town of Venasque, but this is closed off-season. 

Quinsan gets some sun in the morning but is in the shade otherwise. In hot weather the shade will be welcome, but in the winter it will probably be too cold for comfort. Place de l'Ascle is a lot sunnier than Quinsan, though much of it falls into the shade in the afternoon. The starts of the routes are heavily sheltered by trees so whatever time of day you will probably have a shady belay spot.

Approach notes

From either Venasque or the D4, follow the D247 south in the direction of Le Beaucet. A number of crags can be seen on the right. After about 1km, just beyond a bend, an unsigned minor road leads off to the left. 

Quinsan - take this turning and follow the road until a small parking area is found on the left. The path leads up opposite and splits at a bolted-on wooden sign allowing direct access to the left or right ends of the crag. 

Place de l'Ascle - continue driving to where a track leads off to the right just before the road meets the cliff. It is very easy to miss this turning, so slow right down when you see the road getting close to the rock.

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