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Climbs 62
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

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Matt on "Box of Delights", Vicarage Cliff, North Devon © Paul Evans

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Approach notes

Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

(Approach update) at the southern end of the beach there is an in-situ rope which provides a mellow access


Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]
Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
Javu website new routes

Out of print:
Approach handline in place & in good Nick May 19
Steveb27 - 19/May/19
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

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