UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 885m a.s.l
Faces SW

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'Joint', 7a crack, Villanueva de Cauche, in the hills between Malaga and Antequera © iggy healey

Crag features

'Yugoslavia' is the name given to an eye catching crag close to the small mountain village of Villanueva de Cauche. It is composed of a vertical wall of vivid orange limestone that is flanked by some less noticeable smaller buttresses. The crag rises above a grassy slope only seconds from a convenient but quiet road. The crag is also blessed with a southerly, open aspect and a view to die for out over the hills and mountains that run down to the coast and west across to El Torcal. There is a decent spread of grades although the harder lines are the best. On the Main Wall, all of the climbs are very fingery and technical with progress normally being made on tiny edges and the odd pocket or flake-crack. The Upper Sector is steeper and the climbing generally less fingery than on the Main Wall. Locating lines on the rather featureless walls is made easier by the occasional route name painted on the rock at the base of the climbs, although these are now rather tricky to read.


The crag receives sun all day but some shade is possible until mid-morning for early risers. The crag is very exposed and is often breezy. As a result it takes no seepage. It might be possible to climb in the rain on the steepest section of the walls.

Approach notes

From El Chorro head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Málaga, eventually picking up the A45 motorway. Take this and exit at the Colmenar/Villanueva de Cauche exit. Follow signs for Colmenar (do not go to the village of Villanueva de Cauche) and after 2km the crag is seen on the left. (1 hour 15 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Guía de Escalada en Málaga (2019)
Andalucia 2 Edition (2007)
Andalucia (2005)

Out of print:
El Chorro (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

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