Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 885m a.s.l
Faces SW

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'Joint', 7a crack, Villanueva de Cauche, in the hills between Malaga and Antequera © iggy healey

Crag features

'Yugoslavia' is the name given to an eye catching crag close to the small mountain village of Villanueva de Cauche. It is composed of a vertical wall of vivid orange limestone that is flanked by some less noticeable smaller buttresses. The crag rises above a grassy slope only seconds from a convenient but quiet road. The crag is also blessed with a southerly, open aspect and a view to die for out over the hills and mountains that run down to the coast and west across to El Torcal. There is a decent spread of grades although the harder lines are the best. On the Main Wall, all of the climbs are very fingery and technical with progress normally being made on tiny edges and the odd pocket or flake-crack. The Upper Sector is steeper and the climbing generally less fingery than on the Main Wall. Locating lines on the rather featureless walls is made easier by the occasional route name painted on the rock at the base of the climbs, although these are now rather tricky to read.

The crag receives sun in the afternoon (keeps shade until 13:30 in April). The crag is very exposed and is often breezy. As a result it takes little seepage, apart from a few tufa sections. It might be possible to climb in the rain on the steepest section of the walls.

Approach notes

From El Chorro head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Málaga, eventually picking up the A45 motorway. Take this and exit at the Colmenar/Villanueva de Cauche exit. Follow signs for Colmenar (do not go to the village of Villanueva de Cauche) and after 2km the crag is seen on the left. (1 hour 15 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).

Correction to Rockfax comments on the crag aspect: It actually stays in the shade until 13:30-14:00hrs in April, not until mid-morning as stated previously.
Si Witcher - 19/Apr/22
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Climbs at this crag

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