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Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces S

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Steve McClure climbing Gradiva (8a+) in the main cave at Volx. © Stuart Littlefair

Crag features

Volx is a great crag for when it's raining and everything else is soaking since you can be sure to find something dry. There are a number of slabby sectors to the right of the Grottes, but they are not protected from the rain.

As mentioned, much of Volx is impervious to rain, so it's a popular spot on a wet day. You'll get plenty of sun too, though in the winter months you'll need to stick around on the right side of the Grotte to get the most rays. During the summer, Volx isn't as much as a sun trap as you might expect, the steepness of the rock acts as an excellent sun-shade and you can expect to find plenty of shade on the rock in the afternoon and the evening. 

Despite its limitations, Volx has seen some heavy traffic over the years. The result of this is some impressive polish. This is less of an issue on the steeper, juggy routes than it is on the slabbier ones, L'arche de Nausée in particular is now so polished that it is worth climbing to see just how polished it is.

There has been some stability work carried out on the cliff to protect the local buildings. As yet this has not impacted on any of the routes listed although it is not known what future plans there are.

Approach notes

Volx lies above the village of the same name, just off the D4096. At some lights, head up through the town then around to the right past the church and the mini fountain (drinking water). Turn right at the sign 'site d'escalade' and continue until you come to a second sign. Don't turn right up the hill as there is no parking, instead continue briefly and take a left into a car park. From here, return to the 'site d'escalade' sign and follow the road steeply up the hill for five minutes until you reach the crag. There's a toilet on site.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

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