UKC

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Kiddie68 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Tried to find start following guidebook scramble traversing from left. Bad move. First pitch up to main 6b pitch a scary lead on soft crumbly rubbish. After we completed route and abseiled, looks much more pleasant to scramble up from right, above the spring, starting directly below route. The 2nd (6b) pitch was awesome. 3rd pitch pleasant into chimney and shade. 4th pitch was a desperate scramble to top out from the cracks (which were good and offered great pro) so dogged this bit. About 6b+/6c, not the guidebook 6a! Maciej (fortunately seconding) pulled off some huge blocks at the start of this pitch. 4th pitch finishes up an off width, with a hidden peg for protection, which we didn’t notice so M diverged up a scary wall diagonally left then traversing R to belay. We had prepared to continue all the way up Inshallah factor, but next (6c crux) pitch looked desperate and we’d run short on time. Knot got stuck abbing pitch 2, hard to know how to avoid this as V-shaped grove directs ropes onto the knot-sized finger crack which made this pitch so good!
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βeta: Tried to find start following guidebook scramble traversing from left. Bad move. First pitch up to main 6b pitch a scary lead on soft crumbly rubbish. After we completed route and abseiled, looks much more pleasant to scramble up from right, above the spring, starting directly below route. The 2nd (6b) pitch was awesome. 3rd pitch pleasant into chimney and shade. 4th pitch was a desperate scramble to top out from the cracks (which were good and offered great pro) so dogged this bit. About 6b+/6c, not the guidebook 6a! Maciej (fortunately seconding) pulled off some huge blocks at the start of this pitch. 4th pitch finishes up an off width, with a hidden peg for protection, which we didn’t notice so M diverged up a scary wall diagonally left then traversing R to belay. We had prepared to continue all the way up Inshallah factor, but next (6c crux) pitch looked desperate and we’d run short on time. Knot got stuck abbing pitch 2, hard to know how to avoid this as V-shaped grove directs ropes onto the knot-sized finger crack which made this pitch so good!

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High 6b+
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Mid 6b
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Route of Interest
Voyage in the Aura

Grade: 6b ***
(Wadi Rum)

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