UKC

Climbs 215
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces W

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Pete Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett

Crag features

The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Approach notes

Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious
pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.

Topo PDF available at: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/wainstones.htm

Update this Crag
Last updated on 17/Nov/2023

No Access Issues

This excellent crag is popular with individuals and groups alike. In addition to a wide range of graded climbs there is extensive bouldering available. Although exposed to the elements, there is usually shelter to be found on one of its aspects. It can be a delightful sun trap in high summer.

 

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Last update: 10/12/2020  

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I went along the lower forestry track today, as per the Betaguides guidebook. After about a mile, I found the footpath up the hill is closed but you can’t tell until you get there. Not ideal when lugging a couple of bouldering mats around. I’d strongly recommend taking the top path.
afx22 - 23/Oct/21
Pair of green very worn rock shoes + socks left at crag tonight. Montrail CTX. Will bin in a few weeks if not claimed.
johnjb - 17/Sep/20
July 16 - There has been some sad vandalism around the crag, dislodging a number of large blocks which may remain unstable. There is particular damage above Little Bo Peep and it would probably be sensible to inspect the top before climbing as there was debris and some unstable strata evident.
Mike Conlon - 31/Jul/16
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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