4 pitches.
Start as for The Leaf where a large flake leans against the west end of the crag.
1. 4a 12m Climb the first 3-4 metres of The Leaf then traverse right around the blunt arete to below in the recess (shared belay with Western Wall.
2. 4c 25m An exciting and sustained pitch. Climb to the second of two small ledges on the edge of the right-leading ramp and traverse round to cross Malediction. Continue in the same line in a fine position, moving up slightly to reach a descending hand traverse (exposed and strenuous) to reach the foot of the chimney of The Plumb. Place some gear in the chimney, take a deep breath and set off across the steep wall right under the overlap (gear if you look) to belay at the perched block on Bryanston.
3. 4b 15m Despite the lowish grade this is a serious and rather unnerving pitch, especially for the second. Good gear till just over halfway. Move round the perched block and traverse on the lumpy slab below the steep wall. Continue just below the overlap which guards the entry to the mossy slab above. Halfway along either climb on to the mossy slab or continue below it to reach the security of the block belay on Thomas.
4. 4a 10m Climb the well-worn pitch above the block, as for conclusion of Thomas.
1. 4a 12m Climb the first 3-4 metres of The Leaf then traverse right around the blunt arete to below in the recess (shared belay with Western Wall.
2. 4c 25m An exciting and sustained pitch. Climb to the second of two small ledges on the edge of the right-leading ramp and traverse round to cross Malediction. Continue in the same line in a fine position, moving up slightly to reach a descending hand traverse (exposed and strenuous) to reach the foot of the chimney of The Plumb. Place some gear in the chimney, take a deep breath and set off across the steep wall right under the overlap (gear if you look) to belay at the perched block on Bryanston.
3. 4b 15m Despite the lowish grade this is a serious and rather unnerving pitch, especially for the second. Good gear till just over halfway. Move round the perched block and traverse on the lumpy slab below the steep wall. Continue just below the overlap which guards the entry to the mossy slab above. Halfway along either climb on to the mossy slab or continue below it to reach the security of the block belay on Thomas.
4. 4a 10m Climb the well-worn pitch above the block, as for conclusion of Thomas.
Ticklists
Rog Wilko's Neglected Gems in The Lakes , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| andy gittins | 21 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: What an exciting route - tricky route finding but if you get it right it’s quite a trip - the downward finger traverse is above its pay grade really but the mossy slab is full of surprises - gear, descending traverse, some good friction but probably nails if wet - needs competent team work | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: What an exciting route - tricky route finding but if you get it right it’s quite a trip - the downward finger traverse is above its pay grade really but the mossy slab is full of surprises - gear, descending traverse, some good friction but probably nails if wet - needs competent team work |
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Guidebooks for Wallowbarrow Crag
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Route of Interest
The South-West by West Climb
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Pillar)