4 pitches. Start as for The Leaf where a large flake leans against the west end of the crag.
1. 4a 12m Climb the first 3-4 metres of The Leaf then traverse right around the blunt arete to below in the recess (shared belay with Western Wall.
2. 4c 25m An exciting and sustained pitch. Climb to the second of two small ledges on the edge of the right-leading ramp and traverse round to cross Malediction. Continue in the same line in a fine position, moving up slightly to reach a descending hand traverse (exposed and strenuous) to reach the foot of the chimney of The Plumb. Place some gear in the chimney, take a deep breath and set off across the steep wall right under the overlap (gear if you look) to belay at the perched block on Bryanston.
3. 4b 15m Despite the lowish grade this is a serious and rather unnerving pitch, especially for the second. Good gear till just over halfway. Move round the perched block and traverse on the lumpy slab below the steep wall. Continue just below the overlap which guards the entry to the mossy slab above. Halfway along either climb on to the mossy slab or continue below it to reach the security of the block belay on Thomas.
4. 4a 10m Climb the well-worn pitch above the block, as for conclusion of Thomas.


Rog Wilko's Neglected Gems in The Lakes, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS


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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 4
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: VS 4b ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))
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