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Climbs 144
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

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Beautiful view at Wallsend North once the cloud lifted. Mayday bank holiday weekend 2015 © Chris O'Connell

Crag features

The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The routes at Wallsend North are set back from the sea, in a short series of bays; varying from around 10m to 20m high, with some larger walls toward the centre of the cove. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Approach notes

Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Portland (2008)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea
Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15
Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since.
Pike - 06/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

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