Climbs 147
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W
Beautiful view at Wallsend North once the cloud lifted. Mayday bank holiday weekend 2015 © Chris O'Connell
Crag features
The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The routes at Wallsend North are set back from the sea, in a short series of bays; varying from around 10m to 20m high, with some larger walls toward the centre of the cove. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.
Approach notes
Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.
Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.
Rockfax Digital
Available on Rockfax Digital
Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
Dorset
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
| Replaced and improved rope access to Teenage Lust area. Sam Parsons did the final section. Cleaned So Shoot Me and Too Hungary For Love. Original staples look good. Will replace rope handrail next. Wayne.Gaudin - 19/Jun/21 | |
| the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15 | |
| Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since. Pike - 06/Jun/13 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999