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Climbs 130
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces W

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Relaxation Time... Wallsend © TimC123

Crag features

The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The spectacular Wallsend South areas are located at sea level and rise to around 30m. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Approach notes

There are two main approaches, both of which can be hard going, especially the sections along the boulder beach; this is not somewhere to bring non-climbing friends.

Wallsend North Approach - Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.

Coastguard Approach to Wallsend South - Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory and then continue down right to below Coastguard North. Walk north under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. This approach is affected by hugh tide.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Portland (2008)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering 5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

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