UKC

Climbs 136
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Relaxation Time... Wallsend © TimC123

Crag features

The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The spectacular Wallsend South areas are located at sea level and rise to around 30m. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Approach notes

There are two main approaches, both of which can be hard going, especially the sections along the boulder beach; this is not somewhere to bring non-climbing friends.

Wallsend North Approach - Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.

Coastguard Approach to Wallsend South - Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory and then continue down right to below Coastguard North. Walk north under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. This approach is affected by hugh tide.

Access Advice

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering 5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13
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