Climbs 101
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 89m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Kate - Killer Queen © datoon

Crag features

**UPDATED 17 FEB 24*

CLIMBING IS NOW CLOSED FOR PEREGRINE NESTING SEASON. BIRDSPOTTERS WILL BE IN RESIDENCE 24/7 AND DO REPORT ANY CLIMBING ACTIVITY. KEEP AWAY UNTIL THE CRAG OFFICIALLY RE-OPENS. As happened in 2023, an early nesting ban also means that the ban will be lifted early. Please respect the ban ans help us to maintain a good working relationship with the AONB. 

A intimidating crag with great potential and variety. Trad lines are best climbed by those with grades in hand, and not to push your grade. Even after cleaning/clearing work, loose rock should still be expected and protection treated with care. 

Terrace Wall, the bolted upper tier, is popular and provides some enjoyable climbing in the lower grades with excellent views out over Morecambe Bay.

Main Wall appears loose, however has some good rock and amazing lines. Cleaning work began in Jul 2022 after the bird ban was completed. Currently all routes on the Deceptive Bends slab are as cleared as they can be. 

Despite appearance, the far right of the Quarry is very loose and should only be climbed with extreme caution, some recently added bolted lines have yet to be checked, but have seen ascents.

Please provide any detail about loose rock & dodgy in-situ gear in your notes on here and we'll try and make an effort to check it out. Try and avoid unhelpful comments like 'needs a clean' as that is generally something that can be done yourself to benefit others. 

Approach notes

1 minute walk in from the carpark inside the Quarry to the main wall.

10 minutes to the Upper Tier

Bird ban is currently lifted. Check BMC RAD for accurate information and DO NOT CLIMB DURING THE BAN. 

Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.


The newly bolted routes to the right hand side of the quarry are both properly good on mostly sound rock. Get on them before they get polished! Somewhere in the region of 6a+ to 6b+. Props to whoever bolted them as they are really well done with excellent glue ins and lower off. Definitely better than the ones on terrace wall.
MattRose22 - 03/Oct/22
went to the upper tire today, routes are good fun and well bolted. Was better towards the right hand end, generally better rock. Star trek was good though.
john lynch - 29/Dec/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Col Kingshott and Danny Crump

Loading Notifications...