UKC

Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 89m a.s.l
Faces S

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Kate - Killer Queen © datoon

Crag features

**UPDATED 5 AUG 22**
 

A intimidating crag with great potential and variety. Trad lines are best climbed by those with grades in hand, and not to push your grade. Even after cleaning/clearing work, loose rock should still be expected and protection treated with care. 

Terrace Wall, the bolted upper tier, is popular and provides some enjoyable climbing in the lower grades with excellent views out over Morecambe Bay.

Main Wall appears loose, however has some good rock and amazing lines. Cleaning work began in Jul 2022 after the bird ban was completed. Currently all routes on the Deceptive Bends slab are as cleared as they can be. 

Despite appearance, the far right of the Quarry is very loose and should only be climbed with extreme caution, some recently added bolted lines have yet to be checked, but have seen ascents.

Please provide any detail about loose rock & dodgy in-situ gear in your notes on here and we'll try and make an effort to check it out. Try and avoid unhelpful comments like 'needs a clean' as that is generally something that can be done yourself to benefit others. 

Approach notes

1 minute walk in from the carpark inside the Quarry to the main wall.

10 minutes to the Upper Tier

Bird ban 1 Mar - 31 Jul for nesting Peregrines. This ban will be regularly reviewed for 2023 and will be lifted once chicks have fledged for the pair don't nest. Check BMC RAD for accurate information and DO NOT CLIMB DURING THE BAN. 

Access Advice

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before beginning any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators which are measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 20 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

21 July 2022: Unfortunately the peregrines were not successful this year and the ravens have now fledged. Climbing can now restart in the quarry, on site signage expected to be updated soon.

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted across the whole quarry to prevent disturbance of nesting peregrines. Thank you for following the restrictions.

 

 
went to the upper tire today, routes are good fun and well bolted. Was better towards the right hand end, generally better rock. Star trek was good though.
john lynch - 29/Dec/08
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Climbs at this crag

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