UKC Logbook - 'Moater Goat Eliminate'

20m. Start up Castaway and step right onto the ledge where 2 Sheep to Leicester starts. Climb up to a black undercut just right of a bolt. Use this to gain a sloper over the overlap and then a hidden hold next to a bolt. Step right and climb more easily up the corner to step left and follow the the white wall to the ledge. 9 bolts including 2 on Castaway.

Seb Grieve 05/Jul/2020.

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User	Date		Notes
Alan James - Rockfax	15 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Agree with STP. The natural line of this route is actually a decent 6b+. This is what happens when people resist bolting neglected trad routes and climb all around them making the trad route redundant, but creating a slightly artificial new route. By far the best line here is the groove of Triton finishing rightwards at the top. This has now effectively been partially badly retro-bolted yet is no longer a trad route (not that anyone was going to climb it anyway). Just bolt the best line rather than creating poor new routes trying to avoid bolting something that never gets climbed anyway.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Agree with STP. The natural line of this route is actually a decent 6b+. This is what happens when people resist bolting neglected trad routes and climb all around them making the trad route redundant, but creating a slightly artificial new route. By far the best line here is the groove of Triton finishing rightwards at the top. This has now effectively been partially badly retro-bolted yet is no longer a trad route (not that anyone was going to climb it anyway). Just bolt the best line rather than creating poor new routes trying to avoid bolting something that never gets climbed anyway.
stp	25 Oct, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The line is rather contrived as described. Following the chalk leads to the line of holds on the L rather than the black undercut. On the top it's more obvious to continue up the groove before stepping L. Moving L lower down is probably no harder but harder to see where to go. Done as above it's about 6b+ providing the easiest warm up at the crag.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The line is rather contrived as described. Following the chalk leads to the line of holds on the L rather than the black undercut. On the top it's more obvious to continue up the groove before stepping L. Moving L lower down is probably no harder but harder to see where to go. Done as above it's about 6b+ providing the easiest warm up at the crag.
Jon Posnett	3 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Broke a large foothold off on move up from undercut but enough left still Nice sequence through undercut Hopefully with traffic lower part after ledge will settle down Lovely climbing higher up	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Broke a large foothold off on move up from undercut but enough left still Nice sequence through undercut Hopefully with traffic lower part after ledge will settle down Lovely climbing higher up
Seb Grieve	24 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Take care on the lower wall where the route leaves the ledge left of Two Sheep. Although this route has been cleaned there are still some loose holds. Like the other routes here it will clean up over time. I would strongly recommend the belayer wears a helmet. At the 2nd bolt after the ledge the route uses a black undercut to reach straight up to a sloper. It does not traverse left to the corner of Triton.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Take care on the lower wall where the route leaves the ledge left of Two Sheep. Although this route has been cleaned there are still some loose holds. Like the other routes here it will clean up over time. I would strongly recommend the belayer wears a helmet. At the 2nd bolt after the ledge the route uses a black undercut to reach straight up to a sloper. It does not traverse left to the corner of Triton.
Phil baker	16 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Snapped a few footholds at start but the rest held together ok. Climbs well.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Snapped a few footholds at start but the rest held together ok. Climbs well.