Climbs 53
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 279m a.s.l
Faces SW

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One more try before the rain sets in. © Tom F Harding

Crag features

aka Hope Mountain.
A local sandstone bouldering venue, the crag looks like it was a test quarry and is around 10-15 foot high in places. Its main feature is an impressive over hanging roof in the area directly below the trig point.

Several smaller areas can be found as the crag runs intermittently NW for about 150 yds.

A further larger, although disappointing area, can be found a short walk NNW cut into the left side of the far hill.

There are good landings on most problems and is often sheltered from the worst of the wind.

Many problems remain damp in the winter and the rock can be friable when wet, please don't climb when the rock is damp and treat it with care and respect.

Climbing at Waun Y Llyn dates back to the dark ages when bouldering first ascents were not thought to be worth recording and therefore many of the details are unknown.  
We have tried to document the main independent or noteworthy lines.  There are countless other variations, limited only by your imagination which are possibly best left unrecorded for others to explore themselves.

Approach notes

To get there go along the mold-wrexham road from mold direction, the road will widen to a short stretch of dual carriage way and just as it narrows again there is a sign for 'Horeb' on the opposite (right) side of the road going uphill up a small narrow lane follow that to the top of the hill, you will then come across the entrance to the carpark, a short walk up a gravelled path brings you to the crag.

The car park shuts at 6 or 9pm depending on the season, but alternative parking for a few vehicles can be found on the roadside.

I've recently had a few reports of broken or altered holds. Please, please can everyone treat this venue with care and respect. in particular, do not climb on it when wet or damp as this rock is very friable in that condition. Cheers
Mark Riley - 30/Sep/13
There is alot of glass and rubbish under the roof and parts of the the rock under the roof on the cave traverse have broken off due to a Big chav fire.
jack Humphreys - 06/Dec/12
It's been done a long time ago Jack. I'm pretty sure there are no remaining unclimbed lines here apart from the Roof Direct.
Luke Owens - 16/Jul/12
there is a travers under the main overhanging feature. treverse from sit start on far right under and across to the left of the overhang, then after the traverse you can link this with the roof and go up the left side of the roof. has anyone done this route ?
jack Humphreys - 01/Jul/12
Went today, Great bunch of problems. Can anyone recommend any other good problems around the Wrexham area other than Trevor Rocks?
Luke Owens - 28/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

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