Disappearing ball of gas , White hole , Portland Dorset 17.45 hrs 24.03.11 © LaMentalist
White Hole is unique to the west coast of Portland, being an area of well-defined and deeply-incised zawns. The walls of the zawns are relatively short compared to the neighbouring Coastguard Cliffs, but have a set of good routes with an atmosphere that is out of all proportion to their size. The rock is solid, but also extremely rough and it can be a bit tough on finger skin. Many of the lines are climbed both as sport climbs and deep water solos.
Drive to Portland Bill and park by the lighthouse (fee). Walk westwards (right - looking out) next to a fence and above an old quarry for 200m. Turn right at the cliff top and follow the fence. The South Cliff is just below the top after 20m. Mirthmaid Zawn is the large square-cut prow further into the bay. It is reached by following the fence closely past a pipe, before dropping down onto a large rock platform. To reach Memories Zawn and the Faceache Area, continue from the large rock platform by scrambling up to the top of the Mirthmaid promontory. Move along a narrow cliff-top ledge that runs right (looking out) around a square-cut zawn to a narrow rift beneath the weird conglomerate rock bridge.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|What's the deal with access here? I assumed since there is nothing stated in the guides that climbing is permitted here. However, MOD dude today was not happy about our presence. Apparently the MOD own all the land down to the sea, not just what is fenced in and don't allow climbing.|
dannyboy83 - 29/Sep/18
|The fence mentinoed in the description now includes a barrier preventing easy access to the routes on the promontary. Nowadays, one must scramble along ledges to the back of the zawn and make a scary pull across a narrow (but deep) gap.|
Steve Taylor - 30/Sep/03
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