Altitude 230m a.s.l
Getting the heel to stick for the move to the arete © JamesAlexanderTurnbull
CLIMBING NOT ALLOWED
A large roof split in two by a wide central crack. although there a a couple of easier problems, the problems really start at f7a all the way through to f8b.
It used to be a fantastic venue for an evening. However you can longer longer climb here: more info
Quite a few problems put up since/not included in the new YMC guide.
In Feb 2018 a 'no climbing' sign was installed on the crag and the majority of holds were hammered off by persons unknown. This is likely to have been in response to poor behaviour by climbers and has probably left the rock in such a poor state that future climbing will not be possible or desirable, even if access could be negotiated.
This should be taken as a wake up call by all climbers that frequently overlooked practices like considerate parking, being polite and courteous to local people, closing gates behind you and avoiding crags like this (which are close to houses) for lantern sessions are more important than ever in maintaining access to climbing venues.