Altitude 370m a.s.l
Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com
Excellent crag with some classic bouldering and some atmospheric routes, located near the Yorkshire Lancashire border, the crag is north facing and can stay damp and green after rain, although not the most quick drying of venues, there is usually a few routes and good boulder problems that will be dry. There is some bouldering on the upper reaches of the crag which drys quicker, due to its proximety to the reservoir it can be rather midge ridden in the summer..... Fight On Black could possibly be the best arete boulder problem in yorkshire and therefore the entire world. Notable routes include resovoir dogs (E8 7a) and Widdop wall (E9 7a)
Hard standing car park now reopened following Covid-19 closure. The grassy extension is still closed.
6 miles east of Burnley and 5 miles north west from Hebden Bridge, from Hebden head towards heptonstall, once past Hepton stall and into a place called slack bottom follow the road for approx 400m then take the small road to the right follow this road (past hardcastle crags on your right) keep going round some sharp corners on a steep hill, carry on driving till the reservoir and crag appear on the left, park at the resvoir carpark and cross the dam to reach the crag on the far side. Dogs must be kept on a lead, no camping or bivvying
Recent issue shave been raised around the popularity of the crag effecting nesting birds. Night/ lamping sessions are not advised untill further notice due to the effect this can have on protected wild life. The local farmer has expressed concerns around climbers having lamping sessions and the effect this has on nesting birds. You could also be mistaken for a poacher and shot so bear that in mind as well.
The crag is owned by Yorkshire Water, looked after by the ranger team at Calderdale Borough Council and is designated a SSSI. Please keep dogs on leads and beware of car break-ins. Please also note the seasonal voluntary restrictions relating to ground nesting birds.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting BirdsThe restriction applies to night time access (for lamping / lantern sessions) during nesting season. Ground nesting birds are numerous in this area and easily disturbed at night, so please avoid visits after dark during the spring and early summer.
|The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.|
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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