UKC

Climbs 228
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 371m a.s.l
Faces N

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Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

An excellent crag looking out over the Widdop Reservoir and the high and wild moors of the bandit country on the Yorkshire/Lancashire border. Widdop is well known for its bouldering and Fight on Black could possibly be the best arête boulder problem in Yorkshire and therefore the entire world. The routes here tend to be off the regualr circuit, but call in on a fine warm afternoon and a good time is pretty much assured with quality routes from VDiff to E9.

The crag faces due north and, set at an altitude of 350m, it is best enjoyed as a high summer venue. Sadly the crag is often a lurid green colour even in the summer so visits are best made after a good dry spell. Fortunately, the rock is often in rather better condition than its appearance might suggest so it is always worth a closer look. It will catch any wind that is going, especially a cold one from the north. Due to its proximity to the reservoir, the crag can be rather midge ridden in the summer.

Approach notes

Hard standing car park now reopened following Covid-19 closure. The grassy extension is still closed.

There is an extensive car park just below Widdop Reservoir on the minor road that runs from Hebden Bridge to Burnley. Cross the dam and scramble up to the buttress of your choice - the routes are 10 - 20 mins from the parking.

Restricted Access

The crag is owned by Yorkshire Water, looked after by the ranger team at Calderdale Borough Council and is designated a SSSI. Please keep dogs on leads and beware of car break-ins. Please also note the seasonal voluntary restrictions relating to ground nesting birds.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to night time access (for lamping / lantern sessions) during nesting season. Ground nesting birds are numerous in this area and easily disturbed at night, so please avoid visits after dark during the spring and early summer. 
The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

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