UKC

Climbs 204
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces N

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Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Excellent crag with some classic bouldering and some atmospheric routes, located near the Yorkshire Lancashire border, the crag is north facing and can stay damp and green after rain, although not the most quick drying of venues, there is usually a few routes and good boulder problems that will be dry. There is some bouldering on the upper reaches of the crag which drys quicker, due to its proximety to the reservoir it can be rather midge ridden in the summer..... Fight On Black could possibly be the best arete boulder problem in yorkshire and therefore the entire world. Notable routes include resovoir dogs (E8 7a) and Widdop wall (E9 7a)

Approach notes

Hard standing car park now reopened following Covid-19 closure. The grassy extension is still closed.

6 miles east of Burnley and 5 miles north west from Hebden Bridge, from Hebden head towards heptonstall, once past Hepton stall and into a place called slack bottom follow the road for approx 400m then take the small road to the right follow this road (past hardcastle crags on your right) keep going round some sharp corners on a steep hill, carry on driving till the reservoir and crag appear on the left, park at the resvoir carpark and cross the dam to reach the crag on the far side. Dogs must be kept on a lead, no camping or bivvying 

Recent issue shave been raised around the popularity of the crag effecting nesting birds. Night/ lamping sessions are not advised untill further notice due to the effect this can  have on protected wild life. The local farmer has expressed concerns around climbers having lamping sessions and the effect this has on nesting birds. You could also be mistaken for a poacher and shot so bear that in mind as well. 

 

 

 

Access Advice

The crag is owned by Yorkshire Water, looked after by the ranger team at Calderdale Borough Council and is designated a SSSI. Please keep dogs on leads and beware of car break-ins. Please also note the seasonal voluntary restrictions relating to ground nesting birds.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to night time access (for lamping / lantern sessions) during nesting season. Ground nesting birds are numerous in this area and easily disturbed at night, so please avoid visits after dark during the spring and early summer. 

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer j3z

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