UKC

Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

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Niall Grimes on Great Cleft, Wildcat © Paul Evans

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

Land from the broken wall southwards has recently changed ownership and the approach to Wildcat Main Crag has changed. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the broken wall), abseil to the ground and not walk beyond the crag base. This is essential to maintain a good relationship with the new landowner and ensure continued access for climbers.

There is good reasoning behind the new approach. The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of young people, so the new landowners need to prevent climbers and members of the public from coming into close contact with children on site for child safeguarding purposes. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag, there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site being used with children.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not climb over the fence and instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police, as climbing over the fence is very visible to instructors using the river below and will jeopardise future access to the crag. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them of the new approach – it is up to us as climbers to make sure we stick to the agreement and keep access open.

Currently four in situ abseil stations exist at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. It is hoped that additional dedicated abseil lines which don’t interfere with popular routes may be developed in future, but for now these existing abseil stations provide a solution. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from any children on site.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer possible to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress). Other than Upper Tor, these crags have mostly returned to nature through lack of use.

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not included and access is still possible to these areas.



http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

For the approach path to the top of the crag, switch back right up the hill about 100m after the BMC signage, under Puma Buttress. If you reach the fence at the top of the hill, you've gone too far. There is a path through the woods at the top of the crag by the fence but it can be hard going with a rucksack.

 

Restricted Access

Land from the old broken wall southeastwards has changed ownership and the approach to Wildcat Main Crag has changed. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the broken wall), abseil to the ground and not walk beyond the crag base. This is essential to maintain a good relationship with the new landowner and ensure continued access for climbers. This access arrangement relies on the goodwill of the landowner, please act accordingly.

There is good reasoning behind the new approach. The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of young people, so the new landowners need to prevent climbers and members of the public from coming into close contact with children on site for child safeguarding purposes. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag, there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site being used with children.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not climb over the fence and instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police, as climbing over the fence is very visible to instructors using the river below and will jeopardise future access to the crag. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them of the new approach – it is up to us as climbers to make sure we stick to the agreement and keep access open.

Currently four in situ abseil stations exist at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. It is hoped that additional dedicated abseil lines which don’t interfere with popular routes may be developed in future, but for now these existing abseil stations provide a solution. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from any children on site.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer possible to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress). 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not included and access is still possible to these areas.

 

 

Land from the broken wall southwards has recently changed ownership and the approach to Wildcat Main Crag has changed. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the broken wall), abseil to the ground and not walk beyond the crag base. This is essential to maintain a good relationship with the new landowner and ensure continued access for climbers. There is good reasoning behind the new approach. The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of young people, so the new landowners need to prevent climbers and members of the public from coming into close contact with children on site for child safeguarding purposes. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag, there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site being used with children. A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not climb over the fence and instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police, as climbing over the fence is very visible to instructors using the river below and will jeopardise future access to the crag. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them of the new approach – it is up to us as climbers to make sure we stick to the agreement and keep access open. Currently four in situ abseil stations exist at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. It is hoped that additional dedicated abseil lines which don’t interfere with popular routes may be developed in future, but for now these existing abseil stations provide a solution. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from any children on site. Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer possible to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress). Other than Upper Tor, these crags have mostly returned to nature through lack of use. Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not included and access is still possible to these areas.
The Reaper - 09/Apr/22
Access Issues!!! We were approached by local grounds keeper Saturday 22nd January 2022. Politely informed the crag is not open and they were in discussion with the BMC. Finished route and cleaned but had to cut
Jason Iles - 24/Jan/22
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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