Altitude 98m a.s.l
Dominic Green climbing Guillotine (HVS) at Willersley in the rain. © Alan James
A good traditional crag with routes up to 40m long (some two pitches). With the exception of the 'Fowleresque' middle section the rock is sound if a little veggie near the top. Stays dry in the rain for some time, but greasy early in the year.! Lots of worthwhile climbs in the VS to E3 range. Classics include Cucumber Groove, Garrotter(both VS 4c), Pothole Wall (VS 4c,5a), Sycamore Flake (VS 4c,4c), Lone Tree Groove (HVS 5a,4b) and Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b). The route of the crag is Lime Street Direct (E1 5c difficult start only, 4c). The best of the few sport routes is Whatta Riot f7b. Low level traverse is fun bouldering.
From Cromford on the A6 turn right for Crich on the B5053. Parking available on the rihgt after passing the canal/mill complex (SK 301572). Cross the road to gain access via a concessionary path (2 min).
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
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