UKC

150m, 4 pitches. This is a great route but the reputation keeps people away. The approach is a scramble up the slabby gully to the right of the "Left Out" buttress. It is steep easy fifth class. Pitch 1: Start at the base of a very short left facing corner. Wander up the face above until you reach a big horizontal break. Traverse right to a small tree. Climb up the face above past a bolt. Pull over the bulge above the bolt and up the crack above to an in situ gear anchor. This pitch is quite bold. 10b. Pitch 2: Climb up the crack above the belay before cutting right to a bolt on the face. Continue right to another bolt, then climb up to a delicate traverse right to another bolt before gaining a right facing corner. Climb it to a natural anchor on a ledge. 10d. Pitch 3: CLimb up the corner above the anchor then move right to a left facing corner. Climb it till it runs out. After this wander around the face above making difficult moves past a bolt and then bold moves above that to a two bolt anchor 10b (solid E3,5c). Pitch 4. Climb up past the bolt above the anchor and into the right slanting crack. Climb the crack to the top.10b. Abseil straight down in three raps using double ropes.. From the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3 go straight down to another anchor on the 5.9 to the right.

Nordblom, Stone 1987.

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High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
High 5.11a
Mid 5.11a
Low 5.11a
High 5.10d
Mid 5.10d
Low 5.10d
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Route of Interest
Excellent Adventure

Grade: 5.11a ***
( Pine Creek Canyon)

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