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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.
Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
- Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
- Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
- Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.
If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682
12m.
In the Pitface. The corner at the right side of the undercut slab, passing an overlap at five metres. Straightforward with enough gear but may need to be raked out in places, traverse right at the top for 3m below loose overhangs (small wires) and around slight corner to finish straight up by grasping small bonsai tree bush thing, possibly HVS if clean.
Good honest climbing up an attractive corner, possibly a little dusty but well protected. Style around the lower roof to a rest, then steady sustained bridging leads to a useful lower-off.
Good honest climbing up an attractive corner, possibly a little dusty but well protected. Style around the lower roof to a rest, then steady sustained bridging leads to a useful lower-off.
Ian Lonsdale 1974.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiend | 3 Aug |
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βeta: Very thoroughly cleaned August 2025 and deserves a lot more traffic - well worth the 30 seconds walk from Chimney Buttress | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very thoroughly cleaned August 2025 and deserves a lot more traffic - well worth the 30 seconds walk from Chimney Buttress |
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Guidebooks for Wilton 1
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Route of Interest
Fallen Heroes
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Standing Stones)