UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. Tricky and rumoured to be a Joe Brown offering. Climb to the bulges and pull through these (a well-protected one-move-wonder and 5b for the puny) onto the short headwall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Every Climb at Windgather , Windgather Rocks , Windgather Solo Challenge

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User Date Notes
Zebsta 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: 2nd HVS first whip on gear! went cleanly second attempt. go dynamic! glad to have taken the fall :)
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βeta: 2nd HVS first whip on gear! went cleanly second attempt. go dynamic! glad to have taken the fall :)
Chambers81 3 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The top block on the right, where you can place a nut runner wobbles!
Show beta
βeta: The top block on the right, where you can place a nut runner wobbles!
JdotP 29 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: On the right of the top headwall, about 15cm away from the big chimney, is a vertical crack that takes a number 1 nut. When I fell, this took part of the load (a weighed-down sling on the little nobble of rock just below the centre of the headwall took the rest. After I had fallen, I noticed that the nut had moved so I decided to remove and replace it. The nut took quite a bit of effort to wiggle out, but when it did come out the entire block of rock between the crack and the chimney moved a bit. That\'s a big piece of rock... I didn\'t bother putting the nut back in after that!
βeta?
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βeta: On the right of the top headwall, about 15cm away from the big chimney, is a vertical crack that takes a number 1 nut. When I fell, this took part of the load (a weighed-down sling on the little nobble of rock just below the centre of the headwall took the rest. After I had fallen, I noticed that the nut had moved so I decided to remove and replace it. The nut took quite a bit of effort to wiggle out, but when it did come out the entire block of rock between the crack and the chimney moved a bit. That's a big piece of rock... I didn't bother putting the nut back in after that!
Swirly 23 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There's a definate sequence to get above the bulge, however, the gear is excellent and there's loads of it too.
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βeta: There's a definate sequence to get above the bulge, however, the gear is excellent and there's loads of it too.
Reds 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found it surprisingly straightforward - protection is right there for the crux. No way is it E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found it surprisingly straightforward - protection is right there for the crux. No way is it E1.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, but polished footholds and a hard finish don't make it an ideal solo. Indeed at least one person has died soloing the route...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route, but polished footholds and a hard finish don't make it an ideal solo. Indeed at least one person has died soloing the route...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 197
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 185
Votes cast 166
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Marshall's Climb

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Helsby)

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