UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is in three sections - divided by two walls. 

The right-hand section is on CRoW Access Land  -  there was an issue in October 2024 created by climbers and in particular groups -  

     (a) some climbing over the wall near the layby/parking area and 

     (b) not closing the access gate and allowing sheep to escape and get onto the main road (B6276) nearby.   

Needless to say this aggravated the farmer who was also subject to some local social media comments about which he had no control or responsibility.  He was particularly annoyed when, having asked a group to close the gate, he found the gate open.

The local BMC Area Rep has met the farmer and access has been re-established with notices highlighting these factors as follows  -

  • DO NOT CLIMB OVER THE WALL NEAR THE LAYBY
  • ACCESS THE CRAG BY THE GATE TO THE RIGHT OF THE LAYBY
  • CLOSE THE GATE AFTER GOING THROUGH IT  !!!!!!!
  • GENERALLY FOLLOW (OR FOR SOME/MANY - LEARN) THE COUNTRYSIDE CODE

The Access Representative is looking to meet the owners shortly so please avoid going to the crag at the moment.

The middle section is directly behind the cottage and has, thanks to the owner, access to the land and crag, from the right-hand section.   Currently this access is restricted due to the above issue.

The left-hand section is not on CRoW access land and there is currently no access allowed to this land.  The wall at the top of the crag marks the start of CROW land, hence the crag is outside of the CROW area.

8m. Start just right of C.90 at some small, stepped overhangs.
Pull over these and climb the wall direct on mosaic-work rock.

Tom Phillips, Karl Lunt 24/Sep/1989.

Feedback

User Date Notes
MeMeMe 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is no way this is E3 or 6a. The crux is basically at the start and I can only imagine it's 6a if you are below average height. Quite a nice route though.
Show beta
βeta: There is no way this is E3 or 6a. The crux is basically at the start and I can only imagine it's 6a if you are below average height. Quite a nice route though.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blind Vision

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Blind Tarn Crag)

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