UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is in three sections - divided by two walls. 

The right-hand section is on CRoW Access Land  -  there was an issue in October 2024 created by climbers and in particular groups -  

     (a) some climbing over the wall near the layby/parking area and 

     (b) not closing the access gate and allowing sheep to escape and get onto the main road (B6276) nearby.   

Needless to say this aggravated the farmer who was also subject to some local social media comments about which he had no control or responsibility.  He was particularly annoyed when, having asked a group to close the gate, he found the gate open.

The local BMC Area Rep has met the farmer and access has been re-established with notices highlighting these factors as follows  -

  • DO NOT CLIMB OVER THE WALL NEAR THE LAYBY
  • ACCESS THE CRAG BY THE GATE TO THE RIGHT OF THE LAYBY
  • CLOSE THE GATE AFTER GOING THROUGH IT  !!!!!!!
  • GENERALLY FOLLOW (OR FOR SOME/MANY - LEARN) THE COUNTRYSIDE CODE

The Access Representative is looking to meet the owners shortly so please avoid going to the crag at the moment.

The middle section is directly behind the cottage and has, thanks to the owner, access to the land and crag, from the right-hand section.   Currently this access is restricted due to the above issue.

The left-hand section is not on CRoW access land and there is currently no access allowed to this land.  The wall at the top of the crag marks the start of CROW land, hence the crag is outside of the CROW area.

7m. Follow system of ledges 1.5 m left of Sue's route, trending slightly right, then straight up broken rock.

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Grade: S 4a ***
(Kettle Crag)

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