Rockfax Description
An eliminate direct start to Twisting in the Wind, which it meets at the widening pod in the horizontal break - finish left as per the original. The rules; all the rock on the right side the crack is out for hands and feet until you've reached the break of Twisting In The Wind. This sounds daft on paper but is fairly logical once you're there, and makes the best of the middle section of the cave, and the moves are so good. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Eliminate direct start to Twisting in the Wind, joining it at the handjam pod. Everything is in for hands and feet on the start, except for anything right of the crack and the narrow bits of the crack itself. Standard TiTW beta resumes once the handjam pod is gained.
Jon Fullwood 29/Jul/2022.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NickBradley | 24 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great problem, such fun climbing. Used all the tricks in the book and it still felt solid 7C+ to me, as hard as comparable style problems at 7C+ like The Matador and The Section. Note that I climbed it compression style staying on the bulge feature; have seen some people going out further right, matching the undercut, which is quite a way from what Jon did on the FA and doesn't look like cricket to me. It's certainly not as good that way either! Hard to specify with these things though. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great problem, such fun climbing. Used all the tricks in the book and it still felt solid 7C+ to me, as hard as comparable style problems at 7C+ like The Matador and The Section. Note that I climbed it compression style staying on the bulge feature; have seen some people going out further right, matching the undercut, which is quite a way from what Jon did on the FA and doesn't look like cricket to me. It's certainly not as good that way either! Hard to specify with these things though. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
My Lemon
Grade: f7C ***
(Eagle Tor)