Climbs 229
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

Witches Point is one of the jewels in the crown of hard sport climbing in South Wales. The setting is stunning - an idyllic position above a magnificent 'blue flag' sandy surf beach; in the summer months it takes on a holiday atmosphere. All of the cliffs have good rock and the variety of climbing style ranges from powerful to technical and sustained. The only drawbacks are that it is tidal and conditions can be frustrating in humid warm weather.

On the other side of the headland at Witches Point is a collection of tidal low walls. This is Temple Bay. These contain a number of short sport routes in a pleasant seaside environment. The style of climbing varies from thin technical walls to overhanging faces and juggy roof stacks. Although not in the same class as the best on offer at Witches Point, there is plenty here to keep those after a bit of mileage busy, the grade range is friendly and the beach is superb.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Access Advice

National Coastwatch Institution station

We always endeavour to establish whether people climbing up cliffs or at the bottom of cliffs in this area are indeed rock climbers, but some days we have climbers who climb with the minimum of gear, so it’s sometimes a little difficult to see what's going on and identify a tidal cut-off from a bona-fide climber.

We would respectfully offer a service that, when persons go climbing, they can consider giving us a call to inform us of their climb and to avoid confusion, also we can keep an eye on them in case of any issues.

Ultimately, we want to avoid wasting people’s time with unnecessary Coastguard callouts and also not to disrupt climbing activity.

Our contact number is 01656 782936. Hours are 0900 to 1700 Mon to Wed, 0900 to 2100 Thur to Sun (Summer). Reduced hours in winter, generally 0900 to 1600 daily. 

These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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