Climbs 231
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 173m a.s.l
Faces all
Jack on the final scary move © joe.91
Crag features
The rock and climbing, and specifically, the bouldering, is the best the Churnet has to offer. Steep, powerful up-problems, many over large roofs, as well as brilliant traversing. It has the ambience of many of the more open crags of the area, and the views of the surrounding countryside, including Alton Towers, are superb.
The main event is a superb overhanging piece of sandstone conglomerate, inundated with in-situ pebbles, in many horizontal bands. Often in condition when the rest of the peak is not. The rock features many sharp pockets, positive crimps, the odd pebble, and several slopers. Undoubtedly the venue of choice in the dale with many classic problems.
Outlying blocks have been included here, the database is described in order you would approach them. Rainroach and its oddities (quite a way left of here) have been included here as they form a natural continuation.
Access Banned
As of 15th May 2023 the landowner has instituted a complete ban due to "persistent abuse of the access conditions by climbers". PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB HERE until further advice from the BMC.
The crags was previously open for climbing (climbing now banned) within these rules:
(Access to this crag is dependant on climbers maintaining a low profile and adopting a strict leave no trace ethos. In addition, make sure you follow these few simple rules:
- Access is only permitted on Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays
- Only use the gate to cross the fence and access the crag
- Strictly no dogs - dogs have worried livestock and if this happens again, climbing access could be banned
- Daytime access only - no climbing after 5pm
- Minimise noise - stay low profile
- Strict maximum of 6 climbers at the crag)
Access has been removed due to repeat incidences of the rules not being followed.