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40m. A fine pitch which is well protected throughout. Ascend the obvious curving crack to a pair of ledges at half height. Twin pegs above the second, leftmost ledge protect a definitive crux. Above this follow a series of ledges rightwards past a dubious-looking but still-attached block well visible from the base of the route. Abseil from the in-situ thread around a small tree.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Wye Valley 10 x 10, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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User Date Notes
PaulJepson 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I probably wouldn't climb this again knowing what the top is like. Don't do it when anyone else is at the crag and get your belayer to get flush against the wall when you top out. Many loose blocks and dead trees litter a muddy, vegetated slope that you have to drag yourself up to check the lower-off, which is some way back from the top of the route. Virtually impossible not to trundle something.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I probably wouldn't climb this again knowing what the top is like. Don't do it when anyone else is at the crag and get your belayer to get flush against the wall when you top out. Many loose blocks and dead trees litter a muddy, vegetated slope that you have to drag yourself up to check the lower-off, which is some way back from the top of the route. Virtually impossible not to trundle something.
lieraza 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay update: Sarj added another rope from the top tree to reinforce the belay, we also moved one big loose block up away from its precarious position on the edge (I really didn't feel like abseiling down with it perched where it was), but couldn't trundle it as we weren't the only ones at the crag. The belay was solid when we were there but be cautious of the loose rocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay update: Sarj added another rope from the top tree to reinforce the belay, we also moved one big loose block up away from its precarious position on the edge (I really didn't feel like abseiling down with it perched where it was), but couldn't trundle it as we weren't the only ones at the crag. The belay was solid when we were there but be cautious of the loose rocks.
George Geo 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The belay stance does have a flat part to sit at but is mostly atrocious. The leftmost rope is knotted so you can easily work your way up the ropes with two slings to check the ropes/attachments (which you should do) but the loose soil/rocks/brambles make this a nightmare (don't wear shorts on sunny days as you'll end up with bloody heels and calfs), did cut away some of the brambles but left rocks in place as they gave some solidity to the loose soil! There is no safer ground to belay from higher up so you must come back down. There is a sapling for some psychological backup if you need it. On sunny days you will be sitting amongst 50 or so bees happily going about their business. Did trust the ropes to belay off so we thought they would be sound enough to abseil off too, although we did seriously consider walking off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay stance does have a flat part to sit at but is mostly atrocious. The leftmost rope is knotted so you can easily work your way up the ropes with two slings to check the ropes/attachments (which you should do) but the loose soil/rocks/brambles make this a nightmare (don't wear shorts on sunny days as you'll end up with bloody heels and calfs), did cut away some of the brambles but left rocks in place as they gave some solidity to the loose soil! There is no safer ground to belay from higher up so you must come back down. There is a sapling for some psychological backup if you need it. On sunny days you will be sitting amongst 50 or so bees happily going about their business. Did trust the ropes to belay off so we thought they would be sound enough to abseil off too, although we did seriously consider walking off.
nikoid 6 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Consider walking off rather than abbing. There is loose rock at the top which could easily be dislodged when pulling the ropes. Also because the lower offs are attached via long ropes to trees higher up it is not possible to check them properly from the stance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Consider walking off rather than abbing. There is loose rock at the top which could easily be dislodged when pulling the ropes. Also because the lower offs are attached via long ropes to trees higher up it is not possible to check them properly from the stance.

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Style of Ascent
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