UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
A classic trad limestone HVS. Gain the ledge at 4m and take the curving crack above to a ledge. Move left and continue up the corner to the top. This upper section passes a gravity-defying block which is actually solid. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
June 2022 Update - new ropes now in place for the belay.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , 23 HVS routes for 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Belay update update: thanks to CheeseMonkey and JulioFranco, there are now two lines coming from the top, added so the belay is where it used to be. Some gardening on its exit undertaken too so it should be quite comfortable to top out or ab off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay update update: thanks to CheeseMonkey and JulioFranco, there are now two lines coming from the top, added so the belay is where it used to be. Some gardening on its exit undertaken too so it should be quite comfortable to top out or ab off.
lieraza 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay update: Sarj added another rope from the top tree to reinforce the belay, we also moved one big loose block up away from its precarious position on the edge (I really didn't feel like abseiling down with it perched where it was), but couldn't trundle it as we weren't the only ones at the crag. The belay was solid when we were there but be cautious of the loose rocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay update: Sarj added another rope from the top tree to reinforce the belay, we also moved one big loose block up away from its precarious position on the edge (I really didn't feel like abseiling down with it perched where it was), but couldn't trundle it as we weren't the only ones at the crag. The belay was solid when we were there but be cautious of the loose rocks.
George Geo 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The belay stance does have a flat part to sit at but is mostly atrocious. The leftmost rope is knotted so you can easily work your way up the ropes with two slings to check the ropes/attachments (which you should do) but the loose soil/rocks/brambles make this a nightmare (don't wear shorts on sunny days as you'll end up with bloody heels and calfs), did cut away some of the brambles but left rocks in place as they gave some solidity to the loose soil! There is no safer ground to belay from higher up so you must come back down. There is a sapling for some psychological backup if you need it. On sunny days you will be sitting amongst 50 or so bees happily going about their business. Did trust the ropes to belay off so we thought they would be sound enough to abseil off too, although we did seriously consider walking off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay stance does have a flat part to sit at but is mostly atrocious. The leftmost rope is knotted so you can easily work your way up the ropes with two slings to check the ropes/attachments (which you should do) but the loose soil/rocks/brambles make this a nightmare (don't wear shorts on sunny days as you'll end up with bloody heels and calfs), did cut away some of the brambles but left rocks in place as they gave some solidity to the loose soil! There is no safer ground to belay from higher up so you must come back down. There is a sapling for some psychological backup if you need it. On sunny days you will be sitting amongst 50 or so bees happily going about their business. Did trust the ropes to belay off so we thought they would be sound enough to abseil off too, although we did seriously consider walking off.
nikoid 6 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Consider walking off rather than abbing. There is loose rock at the top which could easily be dislodged when pulling the ropes. Also because the lower offs are attached via long ropes to trees higher up it is not possible to check them properly from the stance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Consider walking off rather than abbing. There is loose rock at the top which could easily be dislodged when pulling the ropes. Also because the lower offs are attached via long ropes to trees higher up it is not possible to check them properly from the stance.

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