UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
Care needed with the rock. On the left-hand side of the face and down slightly is a large tree growing up against the rock. Start at a crack on its left. Climb the crack to a tree at 9m and then go left up a little ramp-line to a small ledge. Climb the wide crack (not the friable one to the left) to a ledge (junction with Papillon). Move left and up over detached blocks to a ledge, then finish up the corner above it. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack to the left of the tree. A few metres up you will see a small ramp-slab on the left: climb this to a ledge shared with the next route (Papillion). Make a weird step left and continue up slightly leftwards for few metres (if you are at a dirty orange crack, you went too far). Move up over a groove in the buttress for 5 metres or so; then step right (or, more likely, sit right over the bulge). Follow a corner for 10 metres or so to the top. Abseil from a tree with lots of tat and a maillon.

Ticklists

A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 22 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There\'s a mistake in the LWV which unfortunately appears to have been repeated in the Rockfax description - the junction with Papillon is before the wide crack, not after. It\'s never had a good description unfortunately, and is very difficult to photograph (at least without a drone) - but from memory the initial section goes up, left a bit and then back right to a small ledge and the junction with Papillon. \"The Crack\" itself is a wide right-facing flake crack - from its top you go slightly left to the final groove.
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βeta: There's a mistake in the LWV which unfortunately appears to have been repeated in the Rockfax description - the junction with Papillon is before the wide crack, not after. It's never had a good description unfortunately, and is very difficult to photograph (at least without a drone) - but from memory the initial section goes up, left a bit and then back right to a small ledge and the junction with Papillon. "The Crack" itself is a wide right-facing flake crack - from its top you go slightly left to the final groove.
Sann 15 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not totally sure I was on the right route, but very nice climb. Sustained difficulty and good ledges to rest. Emerged some 6m right of the abseiling tree (tree well alive and tat in good conditions), so maybe the final corner I did was not the right one, but was cool! Very nice abseil down.
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βeta: Not totally sure I was on the right route, but very nice climb. Sustained difficulty and good ledges to rest. Emerged some 6m right of the abseiling tree (tree well alive and tat in good conditions), so maybe the final corner I did was not the right one, but was cool! Very nice abseil down.
GrumpyGoat 26 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.
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βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.
lakeyross 3 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This starts in between two trees on the rhs crack. Up to go ledge with possible tree belay. Then left and up, then up? Then onto a big ledge and another belay. Then left (looks really loose) or right (overcome a small roof) we went right and lived
βeta?
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βeta: This starts in between two trees on the rhs crack. Up to go ledge with possible tree belay. Then left and up, then up? Then onto a big ledge and another belay. Then left (looks really loose) or right (overcome a small roof) we went right and lived

Logged Ascents

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