Care needed with the rock. On the left-hand side of the face and down slightly is a large tree growing up against the rock. Start at a crack on its left. Climb the crack to a tree at 9m and then go left up a little rampline to a small ledge. Climb the wide crack (not the friable one to the left) to a ledge (junction with Papillon). Move left and up, over detached blocks to a ledge, and finish up the corner above it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack to the left of the tree. A few metres up you will see a small ramp-slab on the left: climb this to a ledge shared with the next route (Papillion). Make a weird step left and continue up slightly leftwards for few metres (if you are at a dirty orange crack, you went too far). Move up over a groove in the buttress for 5 metres or so; then step right (or, more likely, sit right over the bulge). Follow a corner for 10 metres or so to the top. Abseil from a tree with lots of tat and a maillon.
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