Altitude 153m a.s.l
Stretching through the crux © DrGav
Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.
UPDATE (Sept 2021): CAUTION there have been reports of dangerous loose blocks at the top of the following routes: Hong Kong Wedding, Come to Mother (and the link-up of those two routes), and Come to Granny. The blocks are now marked with large chalk Xs.
UPDATE: Loose blocks on Hong Kong Wedding now removed. May now be harder.
Regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.
The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock: updated edition now available (Sept 2021). A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.
The A466 is now reopened. Parking along the road is limited, please use the Lower Wyndcliff car park.
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through firstname.lastname@example.org.
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