UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

Combining the initial groove of Come to Mother with the finish of Hong Kong Wedding is a fairly logical link up, and provides a somewhat easier way of accessing the nice sequence on the upper wall. Overall, probably 6a+.

Feedback

User Date Notes
FerClimbs 1 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: People said that a handhold broke at the top so this is harder now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: People said that a handhold broke at the top so this is harder now.
PaulJepson 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
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