UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

12m. The line of right and left-facing flake cracks, starting just right of the the pedestal. Some loose rock in the lower half: care needed with holds (and gear placements). The lower-off of Pedestal Route just to the left can be used, or clip it as a side runner and continue straight up to an independent lower-off.

Feedback

User Date Notes
jk29 23 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Be wary of loose rock
βeta?
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βeta: Be wary of loose rock
Minkey 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice lead. Some loose rock in the lower half but nothing that represents a significant issue. Plenty of good protection, particularly for the committed final couple of moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice lead. Some loose rock in the lower half but nothing that represents a significant issue. Plenty of good protection, particularly for the committed final couple of moves.
RandomUsername 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The latest Wye Valley guide book says not to use the higher of the two lower offs (the staples) mentioned in the description.
βeta?
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βeta: The latest Wye Valley guide book says not to use the higher of the two lower offs (the staples) mentioned in the description.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 36
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Questor

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wynd Cliff)

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