UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

16m. Direct, sustained and intricate: the line of the thin vertical crack right of the flake line of All Hail Cathal. Escapable rightwards at the first ledge; more or less independent thereafter. Pull up the pillar on the right, swing up left to gain the crack, and climb to ledges. Stretch up to lace the crack (small wires/micros) and climb it until it peters out; then continue in the same line, just left of the blunt arete (solitary bolt), to the overlap. Pull strenuously up right to a juggy sidepull; then follow good holds to the lower off of Gone are the Days.

B Mullan, C Lindley 03/Aug/2017.

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