UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

From the shallow cave feature make steep moves through the bulge, using a finger pocket and side pull just left, to gain an in situ thread and good holds (a lower in situ thread to the left on The Huntly Blues can be clipped as a side runner). Move up and finish rightwards.

The route can be climbed starting further left at HVS 5a. Start as for The Huntly Blues and climb to a good sidepull (this is higher and slightly further left than the one mentioned above). Span right for the second in situ thread to join the main route.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
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