UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route with an excellent start and finish. The initial ridge has some fantastic quartz nodules, but it can be avoided.
1) The blunt ridge is climbable in many places. Pick a route and climb the quartz nodules to reach a steeper buttress.
2) A gangway takes you right to an exposed traverse to gain some flat insecure holds heading up a depression. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy groove on the left at grade 3.
2a) Avoid this section altogether by following grassy ledges to the left of the ridge.
3) Above the initial buttress, the going is easier with a few steps which can be taken or avoided as you desire. Before too long you reach the hanging cwm where you head up and left towards the main tower.
4) The tower is short but exposed. Avoid the direct start by heading round the left side before going up, returning to the crest of the ridge as soon as you can.
5) Follow the ridge in an exposed position to where it levels out just before the top.
6) A final obstacle is overcome via some cracks and a corner on the right. Follow the edge round to the summit of Y Garn.
Descent - Go down the Northeast Ridge of Y Garn or drop back in the other direction down The Devil's Kitchen (p.182). © Rockfax

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Ticks without Lymes , Winter

Feedback

User Date Notes
liensiwel 22 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Final tower was very slippery in the wet conditions. Glad we'd brought a length of rope. Lovely route from bottom to top.
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βeta: Final tower was very slippery in the wet conditions. Glad we'd brought a length of rope. Lovely route from bottom to top.
Freyayay 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A lot of scree and some loose rock.
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βeta: A lot of scree and some loose rock.
Shieldz01 22 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good scrambling pretty much all the way up if you fancy it. Took the Grade 3(?) groove lower down followed by several other entertainingly tasty sections. Stupidly took the scrappy recess to the final rise, though the final corner/slab was good fun in a nice exposed position. Will be back to do it again properly.
βeta?
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βeta: Good scrambling pretty much all the way up if you fancy it. Took the Grade 3(?) groove lower down followed by several other entertainingly tasty sections. Stupidly took the scrappy recess to the final rise, though the final corner/slab was good fun in a nice exposed position. Will be back to do it again properly.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Y Garn

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Voting
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
High Grade-1
Mid Grade-1
Low Grade-1
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bryant's Gully

Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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