Rockfax Description
A good route with an excellent start and finish. The initial ridge has some fantastic quartz nodules, but it can be avoided.
Getting to the start - From Ogwen Cottage, follow the main track up the left side of centre, through the gates and up to Llyn Idwal. Turn right across the footbridge and walk along the side of the llyn and then across the beach to a gate through a drystone wall. After 20m pick your way up to the base of the blunt rocky ridge that leads up into Cwm Clyd.
1) The blunt ridge is climbable in many places. Pick a route and climb the quartz nodules to reach a steeper buttress.
2) A gangway takes you right to an exposed traverse to gain some flat insecure holds heading up a depression. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy groove on the left at grade 3.
2a) Avoid this section altogether by following grassy ledges to the left of the ridge.
3) Above the initial buttress, the going is easier with a few steps which can be taken or avoided as you desire. Before too long you reach the hanging cwm where you head up and left towards the main tower.
4) The tower is short but exposed. Avoid the direct start by heading round the left side before going up, returning to the crest of the ridge as soon as you can.
5) Follow the ridge in an exposed position to where it levels out just before the top.
6) A final obstacle is overcome via some cracks and a corner on the right. Follow the edge round to the summit of Y Garn.
Descent - Go down the Northeast Ridge of Y Garn or drop back in the other direction down The Devil's Kitchen (p.182). © Rockfax


Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Ticks without Lymes


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High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
High Grade-1
Mid Grade-1
Low Grade-1
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bristly Ridge

Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fach)

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